The past of Panerai begins with modesty, but develops in a fascinating communicative about innovation, military secrecy, fame and luxury.
This article comes from the archive iMagazine 1/2024
Establishment and early years (1860)
The past of the Panerai brand began in 1860 erstwhile Giovanni Panerai opened his first store at Ponte alle Grazie, Florence. This place served not only as a store and watchshop, but besides as the first watchshop school in this town.
From 1876, the store utilized various locations in Florence, however, in the 1920s, in connection with the reconstruction of Ponte alle Grazie, moved to its current headquarters. It is located in the Archbishop's Palace other Florence Cathedral and functions under the name OROLOGERIA SVIZZERA. This name has been associated with advanced quality watches in Florence for over a 100 years.
Patent Registration (1915)
The past of Panerai brand is closely linked to innovation, and 1 of the key moments was to registry the Radiomir patent. In consequence to the military needs of the Italian Royal Navy, for which the Guido Panerai household has been providing precise instruments specified as naval combat targeting instruments for years, a radium-based powder has been developed. It was formed in collaboration with Lieutenant Commander Carlo Ronconi and was designed to increase the brightness of the shields of instruments and sights. That's how Radiomir was born.
The mention to the name Radiomir was documented in the addition to the patent filed in France on 23 March 1916. The advanced self-luminescence of this compound rapidly made radium paste a key component in Panerai production.
Radium girls
This radium powder inevitably reminds of alleged "radical girls" and concerns their tragic fate. I would stress that these women did not work for Panerai, but for various American watchmakers in the 1920s and 1930s.
In the 1920s, workers in the United States of America utilized radium-based paint to paint clock shields to shine in the dark. This process consisted of utilizing tiny brushes, which women frequently wetted with their mouths to get a thin, precise end – this method was known as pointing.
Unfortunately, the workers were unaware of the harm of the council. In time, many of them began to endure from serious wellness problems, including bone diseases and bone cancers – effects of radiation. This illness was frequently fatal, and its symptoms included failure of teeth, bone pain and another serious conditions.
In the 1920s and 1930s, any of these women took legal action against their employers, leading to any of the first cases of court cases concerning the employer's work for workers' health. Their fight contributed to changes in the regulations on occupational safety and made the public aware of the dangers associated with the council.
Although these tragic events were not straight related to Panerai, the communicative of the "radical girls" is mostly related to the usage of advice in watchmaking, including Panerai and their celebrated Radiomir model. Panerai, like another watchmaking companies of the time, utilized advice to illuminate the shields of watches, but there is no direct evidence that the company applied akin working methods or had akin cases of illness among its employees.
Ref. 3646 (1940)
In 1940, Panerai developed its cooperation with the Italian Royal Navy, creating a model with ref. 3646, which we now know as Radiomir watch. The current version of Radiomir retained many features of the 3646 model: a large, cushioned steel casing with a diameter of 47 mm, luminescent figures and indices, mirrors welded to the housing and a advanced quality hand-turned mechanics (at the time the Cortebert/Rolex 618 caliber was utilized from the pocket watch) and a tanned, waterproof, leather strap (long adequate to be worn on protective clothing). Thus began regular shipments of Panerai watches to Regia Marina.
To improve functionality, Giuseppe Panerai modified the shield structure utilizing overlapping disks, known as sandwich-type shields and the advanced part made of anodized aluminum with perforated indexes and digits to make radium paste more readable and luminescent. For better readability, the shield's layout was redesigned with only 4 large Arabic digits at the main points and 8 indexes at hourly markers.
These all innovations present inactive specify the distinctive kind and functionality of the brand watches.
Luminor (1949)
In 1949, precisely January 11, Panerai patented the name Luminor, which referred to all the luminescent and self-luminescent materials utilized by them. Giuseppe Panerai realized that radioactive compounds required a cautious approach, especially in the face of developing military and civilian atomic technologies. He decided that luminescent substances should be given a new, more neutral name, and gradually began to identify them as Luminor. The fresh luminescent substance is based on tritium (hydrogen isotope), characterized by very low and harmless emissions. This was the consequence of many studies and experiments, and Luminor gradually became, in accordance with the convention of use, a common identifier of the Panerai dive watch, equipped with a distinctive protective crown bridge.
Mare Nostrum (1950)
In the 1950s, Panerai was working on a model plan for Italian Navy deck officers. It was a two-count chronograph named Mare Nostrum. most likely already in the 1940s the first plans of this model were outlined. It is believed that only 2 or 3 of these watches were created, most likely in the 1950s, and the only remains of them are respective photographic plates and 1 prototype that was purchased by the Officine Panerai museum during the 2005 global auction.
Panerai for the Italian Navy (1954)
In 1954, in consequence to a increasing commitment to Italian submarine operations after planet War II, The Italian Royal Navy placed even more circumstantial requirements for military watches: they had to withstand a long time underwater under utmost conditions. This year Panerai tested 2 fresh models, ref. 6152 and ref. 6154. Many of today's models were inspired by these watches due to the fact that they contained innovations designed to make the plan even more solid and resistant – the housing was made of 1 block with handles, retaining the form of the pillow, with more pronounced edges on the sides. These watches received a general aesthetic revision of the individual parts and received a twisted lace, a tubular cylindrical, replacing the conous cylindrical historical Radiomira.
After careful examination of the tests, any modifications were made, resulting in the creation of the final model designated as mention No 6152/1, besides with reinforced handles made of solid steel from the same block as the housing.
Panerai Symbol (1956)
In 1956, Officine Panerai developed a diving watch model, known as GPF-2/56, which later gained popularity under the name Egypt, as it was delivered to the Egyptian Navy with approval from the Italian Navy. Innovations characterizing this model are notable, starting with awesome 60 mm diameter housing sizes, providing adequate durability and crucial waterproofness, ending with a rotating clock ringing to calculate dive time and a Swiss Angelus mechanics with an 8-day walk reserve. It is in this model that for the first time a structural component was introduced, which inactive identifies Panerai watches – the bridge protecting the lace. Egiziano has become an inspiring model for modern Submersible series watches, as it is equipped with a rotating ringing to calculate immersion time. In 1956, Guido Panerai & Figlio internationally patented this lace protection device.
Today's marketplace position and Sylvester Stallone
Today Panerai is considered 1 of the leading brands of luxury watches, valued both for its historical models and for its innovative approach to watchmaking. The company continues to research fresh technologies and materials while paying tribute to its rich heritage, which is closely related to the sea and diving.
The relation between Panerai and actor Sylvestre Stallone is simply a fascinating example of how a known individual can influence the popularity and perception of a luxury brand. Stallone discovered Panerai watches in 1996, and his interest in them had a crucial impact on brand designation and position in the world. He stumbled upon them while in Italy and was impressed by the unique, massive aesthetics of watches that matched his individual kind and image. He was so delighted with their plan that he decided to buy respective copies.
Fascinated by the brand, Stallone ordered a peculiar series of watches at Panerai, which he called Slytech (Sly was his nickname). These watches were customized and included his signature on the shield or on the board. Sylvester besides decided to usage Panerai in the movie "Daylight". It was the 1993 Luminor 5218-201/a Logo.
Richemont Group (1997)
In spring 1997, the Richemont Group (formerly known as the Vendôme Group) took over Officine Panerai Srl. Just after the takeover, the group began the process of implementing a selective distribution network in Italy, which was crucial for adapting the industrial and commercial strategy and exploiting the synergies in the group structures.
Officine Panerai, Florence (2001)
After careful renovation, the historical Panerai boutique was reopened. The restoration of the first rooms at Piazza San Giovanni in Florence followed the takeover of the household studio by Officine Panerai. This craft studio has become a gathering place for collectors and brand lovers who can find there not only copies from the current collection, but besides limited edition watches and peculiar productions that Panerai reserves exclusively for its boutiques.
Radiomir California (PAM01349)
This manually wound-up Radiomir with a California-type shield, characterized by Roman figures on its advanced half and Arabic on the lower half, was equipped with a P.5000 mechanism, performing 21,600 movements per hr and providing 8 days of walking reserve. The housing is 45 mm and the plank is made of sapphire glass to be able to admire the mechanism. There's a brown calf leather strap on the equipment.
Some say that 1 should be primarily curious in Luminor and Submersible series, but there is something in Radiomir with a California-style shield that I feel like having an affair with him.
